Glossary
The ‘A’ coil – so called because it’s shaped like the letter ‘A’ (without the cross bar) – is the indoor part of a central air conditioning unit where evaporation and condensation occurs.
Usually mounted above the furnace cabinet in the ducts, it will include a condensate tray (underneath) and some pipes to dump the condensation into the ground under the building or via a condensate pump, to a remote drain.
Acronym for Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene. Plastic pipes used for plumbing waste and some high efficiency furnace exhausts.
Activated carbon water filters
Activated carbon filters work by absorbing the problem compounds, mainly to remove taste and odour. Many systems will also remove some harmful contaminants. Activated carbon is a highly porous material with a very large surface area. Chemical pollutants are attracted to and held by the its surface.
These water filters are best suited for the removal of organic compounds.
See – Bored well, Drilled well, Leaching, Potable, Reverse osmosis, Sand filters, Sand point well,Water, Water chart, Water Conditioners, Water distillers, Water hammer, Water softeners, Water treatment, Well pumps, Wells, U.V. treatment
In cold climates where winter temperatures can be consistently below zero for several months, moisture in soil or other below grade materials can freeze.
In some circumstances the ice formed in the soil, sticks to below grade concrete, wood or masonry blocks and as the soil expands and rises, it moves everything up with it. This can cause serious damage to structures.
The solution is to backfill with a porous material (sand for instance) which will allow moisture to drain away before freezing. In some cases, a polyethylene barrier between the backfill and the below grade structure will help. The newer membranes installed to many new homes or as a retro fit following renovations or repairs, will also help to resist this sort of damage.
Using clay or any material with a clay content as backfill is poor practice and should be avoided.
See Heaving
Acronym for Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter. (AFCI)
See picture ARC fault
See Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter
Acronym for Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency a measure of the efficiency of furnaces.
The material in the building envelope that helps to prevent air movement. To work – it must be very well sealed.
See Vapour barrier
The force exerted by the atmosphere on a certain area. Static pressure is created by a column of atmosphere (such as in a flue pipe) whereas dynamic pressure is caused by air flow (wind for instance).
An air exchanger takes the stale, warm air from the house and exhausts it outside. Simultaneously, it brings in fresh cold air and (typically)
pushes it into the ducts for circulation via the furnace, around the building.
This is a direct exchange – stale for fresh. There’s no attempt at heat recovery – usually, there’s just a normal air filter to trap dust and bugs.
See pictures (Air exchanger and air exchanger1)
See Heat Recovery Ventilator
Air filters are used in furnaces, air exchangers and heat recovery ventilators. Their composition ranges from glass fibre through paper to steel.
Expect to clean, replace or at the very least examine, air filters every month or so during the heating season, and once or twice during the cooling season. In most areas, air conditioning is used less overall, than heating.
Some high efficiency furnaces will stop working if the filters get too dirty. This is not an issue normally covered by any service agreement
or contract you may have.
Expect to get a bill for the service call if this happens to you.
See pictures (Air filter & Air filter1)
See Electronic air filter
See Electrostatic air filter
See H.E.P.A. filter
The indoor unit of a central air conditioning system. It includes an ‘A’ coil and a blower fan.
It circulates conditioned air throughout the building via ducts.
Air handlers can be used as stand alone devices, where a home might be heated by baseboards for instance, thus allowing a central air conditioning system to be installed.
In a home heated by a forced air furnace system, the furnace cabinet, acts as the air handler box, encasing the ‘A’ coil (usually above the furnace) and the blower unit (usually below).
See ‘A’ coil
Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter (A.F.C.I.)
From January 2002, all branch circuits for bedrooms (typically 120v, 15 or 20 amp) must be protected by an arc fault circuit interrupter.
Usually installed at the panel, they look like ground fault circuit interrupter (G.F.C.I.) breakers with the familiar ‘test’ button on the breaker.
The A.F.C.I. detects the particular sine wave created when wiring arcs and will trip at a much lower level than a regular breaker.
Although other areas of the home may follow, A.F.C.I.’s are currently only required on bedroom circuits.
A.F.C.I.’s and G.F.C.I.’s are different – don’t confuse the two……
A.F.C.I.’s detect arcing and help to prevent a fire.
G.F.C.I.’s detect leakage of electricity to ground and help prevent personal injury caused by electric shocks.
See picture ARC Fault
See Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter
Aluminum wiring was used extensively in the late 1960’s and 1970’s when the price of copper rose dramatically. It is still used in many Municipal utilities today, (street lights, traffic lights and so on).
The problem is that in areas of high humidity, basements for instance, the exposed wiring used to make connections in electrical panels, junction boxes, switches and outlets can corrode or the original connectors can loosen, creating the opportunity for arcing and burning.
Aluminum is also softer than copper and during many installations, electricians (used to the harder copper) cut into the aluminum when stripping the wires, thus reducing their ability to carry the designated load.
Connectors marked CU/AL are recommended for aluminum wiring connectors as they specifically reduce the loose wire problem.
Using copper ‘pig tails’ is another solution. The aluminum wiring that runs through the building (for branch circuits) that is encased in its original sheathing will be as good as new as it has never been exposed to the air.
The problem lies only in the places where the wires have been exposed to make a connection.
Copper pig tails involve adding a short length of copper wiring to each and every exposed aluminum end. Using an air tight connector is the key feature and by doing so, the wire end now exposed is copper.
Many insurances companies are insisting on some form of electrical safety certificate before they will provide the full cover indicated in the policy, where aluminum wiring is installed..
There are many thousands of homes throughout North America that have aluminum wiring. Properly understood and treated, there is no reason to suppose it is unsafe per se.
The current carrying capacity of an electrical conductor, expressed in amperes. (amps).
A metal rod placed in the storage tank of a water heater. The rod protects the tank steel from corrosion by attracting salts in the water.
Water travels through permeable rocks (limestone or sandstone for instance) from its source (a mountain top inlet, snow melt, tributaries and so on) to lower levels. Where the porous, water laden, rocks get trapped between two or more impermeable layers (granite, shale or clay for example) the water pressure rises.
If a well is drilled below the entry of the flow, there can be enough pressure to force the water up out of the ground like a fountain.
Natural springs form in the same way where a crack is created in the impermeable level – by an earthquake for instance.
Visit http://ga.water.usgs.gov/edu/gwartesian.html for pictures
This material comes in many different forms and was used in a number of construction related situations.
Typically it’s found in heating systems on ducts and around pipes and boilers, in some insulation (Vermiculite for instance), as a siding and as a part of some ceiling and floor tiles. This list is not exhaustive.
You can’t identify asbestos without a laboratory test.
(The pictures of asbestos in this site relate to laboratory tested materials and are therefore the real thing!)
The problem is that if disturbed or poorly installed, asbestos fibres can become airborne, creating the potential for the occupants to inhale the fibres.
Asbestos is a known cause of asbestosis and mesothelioma. Asbestosis is a disease caused by breathing in asbestos fibres which may ultimately lead to lung or other cancers. Mesothelioma is a cancer of the lungs or abdominal cavity, also caused by the inhalation of asbestos fibres.
Typical removal of the material can be costly as the asbestos must be completely contained during the operation. Professionally qualified personnel must always be used. Workers wear special suits and breathing apparatus.
Typically – air quality samples are taken before and after removal.
If you are the home owner or buyer, be sure to get some sort of certification from the abatement company once it’s removed. You’ll be sure to need it at re-sale.
If you’re buying or selling a home that has asbestos in it, expect it to be an issue.
For more information visit: www.epa.gov/asbestos/
Or http://www.cmhc-schl.gc.ca/en/burema/gesein/abhose/abhose_ce03.cfm
See pictures (Vermiculite, Zonolite, Asbestos, Asbestos1, Asbestos2, Asbestos3 )
Acronym for American Wire Gauge – designates wire diameters by numbers.
The style that have a hinge along the top and swing out from the bottom.
See picture Windows
A backdraft occurs when air flow from outside a building, enters the building through a barometric damper, burner or draft hood. Caused by chimney blockages or pressure differentials that cannot be overcome by the natural or induced draft at the chimney or flue pipe.
The flow of water or other liquid into the potable side of a water supply. Often the material is waste, rendering the (normally potable) water unsafe.
In a bidet for instance, where there’s a spray in the bottom, water can be filled above the spray outlet. In certain circumstances, water in the bidet (that has been used) could be sucked backwards into the spray nozzle and end up in your glass of cold water from a kitchen faucet.
The backflow device prevents this from happening.
See pictures– Back flow, Backflow bidet and Backflow bidet1
Also called draft regulator – a draft control device used to stabilize the natural draft in an appliance (oil furnace, oil water heater or wood furnace for instance) by letting room air into the venting system.
See picture Baro damper
Boilers are heating devices that transfer heat from a heat exchanger (heated by gas, oil, wood, electricity etc.) into water. The hot water or steam is then used to heat the building.
Steam or water heating technology differs only in that the latter uses pumps to circulate the water. Typically there are no pumps in a steam system.
Boiler materials are cast iron, steel, copper and aluminum. The most popular are cast iron, gas fired. Steel boilers cost less and are almost always oil fired.
Copper units are usually only for smaller – instant water heaters.
Whole house air conditioning for homes with boilers needs a separate duct system and air handler installed.
See picture (Gas boiler)
See Air handler
A large diameter (typically 2 – 3 feet across) is drilled into the ground with a special machine. It’s usually a maximum of about 40 or 50 feet deep and is only used in areas where the soil is very stable.
It’s no use in areas of sand (because it just falls in all the time) and you can’t have rocks or gravel.
It’s an expensive way to provide a well as the labour costs are high – even when it’s bored – you still have to line it.
In common with dug wells – they can suffer from water supply problems such as vulnerability to contamination and seasonal low supply.
See animation
See Drilled well, Dug well, Sand point well, Driven well, Well pumps and Wells
British thermal unit. The amount of heat required to raise the temperature of one pound of water – one degree Fahrenheit.
Gas flue pipe for interior use. Designed by Selkirk Industries, Ontario and manufactured through Canada and the United States.
Most B vents allow combustible clearance requirements to be as little an one inch.
See picture B vent
Trade name for armoured cable.
See picture BX cable
The style that swing out at 900 to the frame – like a door.
See picture Windows
A masonry wall with two separate thicknesses, separated by a space of at least two inches. The two halves are tied together with wall ties or other bonding materials.
Material made from shredded newsprint treated so as to resist fire, mold and fungi.
See picture Cellulose
The air required for satisfactory combustion of fuel, including excess air.
Metal or refractory chamber in the firebox used to contain the combustion flame(s).
The liquid that separates from gas or other combustion product, due to temperature reduction.
Heating air or liquids causes them to rise (ascend) and fall (descend) on cooling. The transfer of heat in this way is called convection.
Available in three categories: ‘K’ is heaviest – then ‘L’ (standard) and finally ‘M’ the lightest.
Acronym for Chlorinated polyvinyl chloride – used in some areas for water supplies. Not permitted in all jurisdictions.
A plate that regulates draft or exhaust gasses in a flue which may be attached to a furnace, boiler or any wood burning device.
Coating a building material (usually on the outside) to regulate the flow of moisture through the material.
May also apply to a material used to prevent moisture moving between concrete and any adjacent wood. (Under the bottom plate of a stud wall in a basement for instance.)
Draft regulator
To reduce the water vapour or moisture content of the air in a room.
Occurs when the air outside the building is at a greater pressure than the air inside. Often caused by exhaust fans in bathrooms or hood fans over stoves.
Blocking the inlet of any Heat Recovery Ventilator or air exchanger can also cause the problem.
Excess depressurization may make fireplaces and wood stoves difficult to keep alight and cause them to smoke. It also causes exterior (often cold) air to be sucked into the building through ill fitting doors and windows
Air and water vapour are mixed together (humidity). The dew point is the temperature at which the air is at 100% humidity. The dew point can change if the air comes into contact with a colder surface. This is when condensation occurs.
The style that slide up and down. On double hung windows, both sections are moveable, whereas in the single hung variety, only the bottom half moves.
See picture Windows
Air traveling down a chimney – sometimes caused by inadequate height of the flue pipe above the roof, depressurization, or simply by very cold air (-200C or worse) falling down the pipe.
See Depressurization
A hole, lined with a steel pipe, is drilled into the ground until it meets an aquifer or other water source. This can be anywhere from about 50 feet to several hundred feet deep.
Water rises up the pipe to a (typical) depth of between 20 and 50 feet, just from the pressure in the aquifer.
A submersible pump is lowered into the well below the water level. The discharge pipe, from the pump (via the steel well pipe) to the house, is buried below any frost danger.
The pump pushes water up the pipes into a pressure tank, compressing the air in the tank until it reaches about 40 or 50 pounds per square inch. Then it stops.
Turning on a tap or shower allows the water at that pressure to come rushing out. A sensor detects the drop in pressure in the tank and sends a message to the pump – “Send more water”.
Wells at a lower depth use the same system except that the pump – instead of being actually in the well (submersible) is in the house or building. (Jet pump)
The main difference – apart from location – is that the jet pump sucks water up from the well, where the submersible pump pushes it up.
See animation
See Dug well, Sand point well, Driven well, Bored well, Well pumps and Wells
See Sand point wells.
See animation
See Drilled well, Sand point well, Bored well, Well pumps and Wells
Digging a well by hand doesn’t make much sense today, given that most areas are accessible to heavy equipment.
Dug wells are not usually more than about 20 feet deep but are often at least three feet wide.
In common with bored wells – they can suffer from water supply problems such as vulnerability to contamination and seasonal low supply.
See animation
See Drilled well, Sand point well, Driven well, Bored well, Well pumps and Wells
D.W.V.
Acronym for drain, waste, vent. Relates to plumbing systems.
Eavestrough a.k.a. gutters are not always supplied as part of a new home from inception. In many areas, they are considered an upgrade and indeed many building codes don’t mention them at all.
Properly installed they can make a big difference to the amount of water draining close to the foundation and by inference, the basement or other below grade areas.
Always ensure that all downspouts or drainpipes discharge at least six feet from the foundation walls. Do not allow downspouts to discharge onto roof shingles as it promotes excessive wear, or into window well areas as that increases the chances of leakage.
In cold climates, the seamless, aluminum type work best. Plastic ones can become brittle in very cold temperatures and not only do they have more joints, the joints leak more easily.
In temperate climates it doesn’t matter which you use.
The older style galvanized steel gutters are no longer generally available. If you win the lottery, copper or stainless steel are available!!
The rollout plastic extension devices are useless in cold climates but work well in warmer places.
The rollout only works once in cold Spring weather because some water always stays in the pipe. During the night it freezes and won’t work again until the thaw.
Keep eavestroughs clear of leaves or other debris.
See pictures Downspout, Downspout1, Downspout2, Downspout3, Downspout4, Rollout, Window well1
The white powder or crystalline deposits mainly found on damp masonry walls and floors.
See picture Efflorescence
See Leaching
Electronic air filters work by creating an electric current through a series of very thin wires. The current charges the particles of dust (and as an aside, zaps bugs) as they try to pass through. The debris is collected on a metal mesh screen which you have to clean periodically.
These units are normally 110v.
See pictures (Elec. air filter, Elec. air filter1, Elec. air filter2 and Elec. air filter3)
See Air filter & Electrostatic air filters
Electrostatic air filters are powered by low voltage electricity and create a static charge over the area of the filter. The charge attracts the dust particles and keeps them at the filter.
See Air filter & Electronic air filter
In areas of low humidity such as Colorado, direct evaporative cooling is a very economical way to cool air. As water evaporates into the air, the air temperature drops (heat energy from the air is used to change the water from liquid to vapor) and the air is humidified. Depending on how much cooling is required, from one to three stages of evaporative cooling may be used.
Because evaporative cooling increases the humidity of the air, this process requires low outside air humidity and the humidified air (from inside) must be continuously exhausted outside the building.
Firebox
The container inside a furnace, water heater or wood burning device where combustion takes place. (a.k.a. combustion chamber)
Flashings
Flashings are the materials that we use to waterproof joints between two dissimilar materials (bricks and asphalt roof shingles for instance) or where two similar materials meet but on different planes – the valley on a roof for example)
Flashings can be a source of water penetration and must be checked and maintained annually. Rusted metal must be painted to slow the deterioration process.
Installing ice and water shield at vulnerable areas can help to prevent leaks.
Footings are the lowest part of any building and are usually buried in the ground. They may be wide strips of concrete or piers sunk deep into the earth.
No matter what their construction, together with other structural elements, they help to prevent the building from being pulled into the ground, by gravity.
When buildings settle, sometimes causing significant damage, the cause is often inadequate footing sizes for the soil structure.
Cracks in footings are a significant problem and almost always need professional repairs.
See pictures (Foundation & Foundation and footing)
See Foundations
Foundations (together with footings) are the part of a building that help prevent gravity from pulling it into the ground.
Foundation walls also allow us to have lower levels in our homes – basements and crawl spaces – as they prevent the soil outside from falling in.
They are usually made from concrete, masonry blocks or preserved wood. Steel is also used in some buildings.
If you live in the North, you’re most likely to have a basement. Central states homes usually have crawl spaces and Southern homes where the frost is not an issue, usually have a slab of concrete at grade.
There are exceptions of course, some homes in the South have basements and many Northern homes have crawl spaces or a slab on grade.
The choice is usually determined by local convention and geographical location (soil conditions).
The issue of cracks in foundations would fill an entire web site. Here are a few pointers:
• Most cracks in concrete walls are repairable.
• Vertical cracks in concrete walls are usually the easiest to repair.
• Horizontal or diagonal cracks are generally a big problem.
• Any cracks that involve lateral (sideways) displacement of the concrete or the masonry blocks will need significant repair or re-building.
• Minor cracks in the mortar of masonry block walls (with no displacement) are seldom a big issue.
• Horizontal cracks along the line of mortar in a masonry block wall is usually an indicator of exterior pressure (from wet soil for instance) and may need re-building.
• Multiple cracks (even vertical ones) in the same wall are a big problem.
• Multiple cracks in different walls really shouldn’t happen and need further professional investigation.
• Preserved wood foundations that are not straight (i.e. they bow along the length) will need excavation and re-setting.
• Not all cracks leak.
• Leaking cracks should always be repaired.
• Many leaks can be resolved by attention to exterior drainage and grading.
For most buyers and sellers, the issue is not “Can we repair it?” – but – “At what cost and using whose dollar?”
Home inspectors have no part in the negotiation process. They give you the news (good or bad) and may advise you to get professional quotations.
Your Realtor® is your negotiator.
If you’re in a ‘For Sale by Owner’ negotiation, you may find your lawyer will help with advice, otherwise, generally, your on your own!
See pictures Grade, Foundation and Foundation and footing
See Settlement and Heaving
Fuel burning furnaces (as opposed to electric ones) provide heat by using the results of combustion to heat up a heat exchanger. Air, passed over the surface of the (hot) heat exchanger, heats up and is circulated by a fan around the building.
The products of combustion are then exhausted outside via a flue pipe which may be plastic or steel.
Condensing furnaces have a second, corrosion resistant, heat exchanger. This allows heat from the exhaust gasses to be drawn out and the resulting condensation, caused when the flue temperature is significantly lower than the dew point, is drained off .
Low flue temperatures allow the use of plastic flue pipes but also need auxiliary fans to push the exhaust gasses out. (The cooler gases do not rise readily – unaided).
All condensing furnaces have sealed combustion with outside air being drawn into the heat exchanger (via a plastic pipe), mixed with the fuel and burned.
These systems give typical efficiency ratings above 90%.
Non condensing furnaces have only one heat exchanger and the flue gas temperature is high, requiring the use of galvanized steel flue pipes with double or triple walled stainless steel parts where the pipes pass through walls or ceilings.
These units usually only have efficiencies in the 80% range as this is the upper limit before flue gas condensation occurs.
Furnaces use electricity, mainly to drive the circulation fans. Look for furnaces with variable speed fan motors which can save you a lot of money over the year, especially if you run the fan continuously.
Furnaces are often recognized by the words – High efficiency, Mid Efficiency or Conventional.
Typically what we mean is, High efficiency – over 90%, Mid efficiency – about 80-85% and Conventional – under 80% (sometimes as low as 55%).
A furnace’s efficiency is determined by measuring its performance over the heating season. The acronym AFUE (Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency) is the most used standard.
New furnaces are generally required to have a minimum efficiency of 78%. By comparison, many older units’ efficiencies are in the 55-65% range.
ENERGY STAR units must have a minimum efficiency of 90%.
The question is – of course – at what time is it financially prudent to replace a working furnace?
Clearly, older furnaces have a lower efficiency – by perhaps 20% or more – so on an annual fuel bill of $1,500.00 – you’d save $300.00.
That sounds pretty good, but it’s not the whole picture. We have to take into account the capital cost of buying and installing the new unit.
So the math might look like this:
Let’s say it costs $3,000.00 to buy and install the new unit.
The return on investment would be: “First year savings divided by installed cost”
300 ÷ 3,000 = 0.10 = 10%
That’s not a bad return and currently a lot higher than you’d get from the bank!
Add to that the fact that you pay no taxes on the gain and if fuel prices rise (and isn’t that what they always seem to do?) – you save proportionally more.
On the down side – getting a 10% return – even if that continued throughout the life of the furnace – would take you ten years to recover the capital cost. By that time the furnace would be two-thirds through it’s life and within five years, you’d have to start all over again.
Other factors like improved insulation or other upgrades might make a difference to the savings too, so when you’re in the market for a new furnace, make sure the contractor gives you a written heat loss survey which will take into account all the relevant features of your home – even the orientation can make a difference.
So – should I replace with mid or high efficiency?
Generally speaking, you should replace like with like. So if you have a high efficiency furnace, stick with it and get a new one of the same persuasion.
If you have an older furnace which falls into neither group, it’s likely you have an existing flue pipe. In these circumstances it’s seldom worth paying the extra to upgrade to high efficiency. Buy a mid efficiency unit and use the existing flue.
If you’re changing from an electric furnace or from baseboards to a gas furnace, a high efficiency unit with its easily configured plastic exhaust, will save you the cost and disruption of trying to install a flue pipe through the building. Most furnace configurations have the unit somewhere near the middle of the building to give a more even distribution of heat. Installing a flue pipe through the centre of your home may be more aggravation than you want to assume.
Electric furnaces are just like a giant hair dryer. Elements inside are heated by electricity and the fan blows air over them. The heat is transferred to the air and ultimately to the building via a normal duct system.
Most elements are replaceable.
Galvanized supply pipes strike fear into the hearts of insurance companies who will often insist on their replacement before the full effect of your policy comes into force.
The problem is that the pipes corrode from the inside – out. Thus a pipe that looks as good as new on the outside, may be corroded to the point where a spontaneous break through may occur, creating a leak. On supply pipes this can be a big problem. Typical water supply volume is at least three to five gallons a minute. Most supplies are continuous, that is to say, unless you stem the leak or turn it off somewhere – it just keeps coming!
The second problem is that the corrosion can build up to the point where the flow is severely restricted, preventing adequate supplies at the faucets or shower heads.
Galvanized waste pipes are not usually considered to be a problem as the water only flows through them in short bursts. Add to that the fact that the water flowing in waste pipes is usually not under any pressure (except gravity) and finite. Once the tub or basin is empty, the flow stops.
If you’re buying or selling a home with galvanized supply pipes, expect it to be an issue.
See picture (Galvanized supply)
Acronym for ground fault circuit interrupter. These devices constantly test the amount of electricity in the hot and neutral wires. If there’s a difference of about 30 milliamps – they trip. Installed for protection against electrocution in bathrooms, outside, garages, swimming pool equipment and so on.
To give you an idea of how quickly G.F.C.I.s react:
A G.F.C.I. will shut down a circuit in 0.025 of a second.
A regular breaker will take up to 3 seconds to shut a circuit down.
Electricity will stop your heart in 0.2 of a second.
Grading relates to the way that the land including drives, pathways, patios and so on slopes, in relation to the building.
The grade should always slope away from the foundation walls for at least the first five or six feet (ten feet is better but not always achievable).
It must always be at least six to eight inches below any brick or siding veneer, to help prevent moisture retention against the veneer which may cause rot or other damage.
In some cases to achieve the latter, you may have to install window wells.
Many basement leakage problems can be resolved or at least significantly reduced by attention to grading and drainage.
When back filling to improve grade slopes, always use a material that is not too porous – regular dirt works well, especially if you sow it with grass. If you use a porous material like sand or gravel, the water just falls through instead of flowing away from the foundation.
See Eavestrough, Window wells
See pictures Grade, Grade1, Grade2, Grade3, Grade4
Describes the water from sinks, washing machines, showers and so on that is only lightly contaminated i.e. not from toilets.
In some jurisdictions, you may be allowed to discharge grey water to a leaching pit instead of to a holding tank or septic system.
See Leaching, Holding tanks, Septic Systems
See Eavestrough link
Potentially fatal infection that comes from mouse droppings, saliva or urine.
For more information go to:
http://www.montana.edu/wwwpb/pubs/mt9404.html
The wood support over windows and doors. Also known as a lintel.
See Lintel
Over stairs – typically 6ft 8in. but check local codes.
The fire box and any auxiliary heat transfer surface(s) within the casing of an appliance.
See picture Heat exchanger 1
Heat Recovery Ventilator (H.R.V.)
Heat Recovery Ventilators take stale, warm air from the building, pass it over a central core (which traps the heat) and then exhaust the (now) cold, stale air outside.
Simultaneously, fresh cold air is brought in from outside and passed over the core the other way. The cold air picks up the heat and the (now) warm fresh air is circulated into the house.
Manufacturers claim that there’s a 75% heat loss saving by using an H.R.V. when compared to a direct exchange – by using an air exchanger for instance.
H.R.V.s are controlled by a humidistat, allowing you to choose the level of humidity in your home. They will not act as a humidifier by adding moisture, that’s a separate device altogether.
Do not use H.R.V.s in the summer months. The unit will take the air conditioned air from inside – throw it out and bring in more humid air for your air conditioning to work on!
Typical use time is from about November to March.
View the animation
See picture (HRV1)
See air exchanger and humidifier
Buildings or parts of buildings heave when below grade pressures overcome the weight of the structure, pushing it up out of the ground.
When the ground thaws, the structure will regain some – but not usually all – of its original position.
Heaving is usually caused by frost action or by a seismic event.
The most common place to see heaving is at decks and small additions built on piers or posts although ad-freezing can lift entire garages and other small buildings..
See Settlement and Ad-freezing
H.E.P.A. filter
High Efficiency Particulate Air filters (H.E.P.A.) provide some of the best air filtration and cleaning available.
Many are installed to protect allergy and other air borne substance sufferers in their homes. Portable units are available.
These filters are used in many sensitive Government facilities – nuclear plants and hospitals for instance.
For more information visit: www.naturalsolutions1.com/whathepa.htm
See picture H.E.P.A. filter
Measure of the frequency of alternating current. (AC). In North America – the standard is 60 hertz.
High efficiency furnace – See Furnace (condensing) and Furnace efficiency links
In situations where there’s no mains drainage (sewers) or the land is too small, too steep or too environmentally sensitive for a septic system, you may be allowed to install a holding tank to collect waste from the building.
Holding tanks are typically concrete or some type of plastic/fiberglass. They must have frost protection, so most are buried. This of course also allows for gravity drainage from the building.
All waste from the home drains (usually by gravity) into the (buried) tank.
Sealed access lids on top allow for emptying and all have a venting system. Most jurisdictions insist on a protected (battery backup) alarm system (flashing lights and audible alarm) to tell you when the tank’s about three quarters full.
In some areas, you will also have to install a high water alarm that shuts off the water supply to the house when the tank gets too full.
In some jurisdictions, you may be allowed to drain grey water (from sinks, showers, washing machines and so on) into a separate leaching pit.
This slows the filling of the holding tank as you’re only putting the waste from toilets into it and so you won’t have to pay to have it emptied quite so often.
See Septic systems
The style that have a hinge along the bottom and swing out (or in) at the top.
See picture Windows
Humidifiers add moisture to the air in your home, usually through the existing ducts.
Maintaining a reasonable level of humidity (40% is a good start), will keep your hardwood floors more or less level, prevent you from getting zapped by static electricity every time you walk past the cat, keep window condensation to a minimum and ensure your Steinway stays in tune!
The older style, rotating drum/reservoir humidifiers are tough to keep clean without constant maintenance. Failure to maintain them or forgetting to empty them during the off season, allows the water in the reservoir to stagnate and grow bacteria and other disgusting stuff, which you then blow round your house.
The new spray type, largely solves that problem by spraying water only in response to a call from the (remote) humidistat. Excess water not picked up by the air flow, drains away to a floor drain or condensate pump.
You still have to maintain them, of course however that task is less onerous and not quite so time sensitive.
The down side is that the spray type use more water.
See pictures Humidifier, Humidifier1, Humidifier2, Humidifier3
A measure of the percentage of water vapour in the air. In a normal house – 40% is a good average but much depends on your particular lifestyle.
Acronym for Indoor Air Quality.
Indoor air quality testing is becoming more popular and there’s no doubt – the knowledge from such a test can show you how to make a significant improvement to your living conditions.
An ice and water shield membrane is composed of two waterproofing materials – a very sticky, rubberized asphalt, adhesive backed by a layer of high-density, cross-laminated polyethylene. The sticky, rubberized asphalt, surface has a special a release paper that protects its adhesive quality. During application, the release paper is removed, allowing the rubberized asphalt to bond tightly to the roof deck.
It comes in rolls about three or four feet wide.
Shingles are laid over the membrane. The nails that penetrate the membrane immediately sealed by the membrane asphalt and the adhesive.
Ice dams are caused when poor attic insulation and/or ventilation cause snow to melt on the upper portions of the roof. The water runs down the roof until it meets the colder overhang, where it freezes.
Subsequent melting water, trapped behind the dam, builds up until it seeps under the shingles and penetrates the roof.
Installing tar paper and/or ice and water shield when repairing or re-roofing, generally prevents
moisture penetrating the attic spaces. To resolve the problem on a more permanent basis, improve attic insulation and ventilation, especially at the eaves.
In extreme cases – heating cables are a temporary fix.
See pictures Ice damming and Ice damming1
Heating system with a fan that pulls exhaust gasses from the furnace and pushes them outside.
See picture. Induced draft furnace
What is ‘R’ value anyway?
Look in the hardware store or talk to anyone about insulation and it won’t be long before the phrase “ ‘R’ value” comes up – usually followed by a number.
You’ll see insulation bales in the store with R12, R20, R40 and so on – written on them.
‘R’ value is the number that you get when you test an insulation material’s resistance to heat transfer across its width – in no air movement – at 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
So – for instance, an inch of glass fibre with give you a number about 3.4.
Using this information we can now see that if we put six inches of glass fibre in a wall – we’ll get an ‘R’ value of about 20. (6 x 3.4 = 20.4).
Different insulation materials have different R values – settled, blown in, cellulose for instance has an R value of about 3.7 per inch, expanded polystyrene is about 4.0 per inch and so on.
Of course we can’t usually replicate the testing conditions in the real world – so although the insulation in your attic may be declared as R40 – the likelihood is – that given the surrounding conditions – it’s something less than that.
Making any insulation wet or allowing any air movement (between poorly installed batts for instance) – reduces its R value significantly.
Years ago when fuel was cheap – or often in the case of wood – free – we were less concerned about insulating our homes than we are today.
As this article is written, crude oil costs are topping $68 a barrel with analysts suggesting that $70 is on its way!
Clearly – whether you live in a hot or cold area of the country – insulation will be a major factor in reducing your heating or cooling costs. (All figures in US dollars).
Should I add more?
Most modern homes have adequate insulation and it’s one area where the “more is better’ maxim doesn’t necessarily apply.
Insulation heat resistance levels are subject to the Law of Diminishing Returns.
Suppose you have an un-insulated home and you add $1,000 worth of insulation – you might save $200 on your heating or cooling costs.
Now you add another $1,000 dollars of insulation and to your horror you discover you only saved $225.
How could this be? – well the first $1,000 saved you 75% of your heat loss but the second $1,000 only saved you 75% of the 25% you didn’t save in the first place!
So be careful about adding lots more insulation – often it will be many years before you recoup the capital cost by way of heating or cooling loss saving.
Your home inspector will have a good idea of the value of your current insulation and will advise you about the benefits of upgrading.
Foam insulation
Foam insulation – often known generically as Styrofoam ® – is widely used as an insulator for walls, floors and (less commonly) ceilings.
It’s a good insulator, however in most jurisdictions, in any habitable spaces, it must be covered with a fire retardant material. Usually, contractors will use drywall.
The problem is that foam insulation burns easily and gives off toxic smoke. The drywall cover will give you about thirty minutes to escape.
See pictures Insulation, Cellulose, Foam insulation and Foam insulation1
See R.S.I.
Used in well systems for the shallower wells (typically under about 100 feet) – these pumps suck water up from the well and push it into a pressure tank inside the house.
See picture Jet pump.
See animation
See Submersible pump
Knee wall
Framed wall that helps support rafters that are very long and would otherwise sag. Typically a knee wall will be at or about the mid point of the rafter but may be lower.
Knob and tube wiring
Knob and tube wiring was installed in some homes prior to 1950, and is now considered in many jurisdictions to be obsolete.
It generally has only two wires (hot and neutral) as opposed to the more modern three wire system that includes a ground wire.
As it was installed in homes over fifty years ago when the electrical loading was considerably less – people had far fewer electrical appliances back then – you may find that there are insufficient outlets, an inadequate service size and a panel that will not support the system you need.
The sheathing of much knob and tube wiring deteriorates over time. In the worst cases, the condition of the sheathing declines to the point where conductors are exposed.
Insurance companies are generally unwilling to insure the electrical system content of homes with this type of wiring and may insist on its replacement before the full coverage will apply.
If you’re buying or selling a home with this sort of wiring, expect it to be an issue. In many cases – someone will have to pay to re-wire it to current electrical codes.
See picture (Knob and tube)
Horizontal (sideways) movement.
Horizontal pressure.
Solids washed to the surface of brick, wood, concrete and so on, by water passing through it. The action often leaves a deposit on the surface. (Efflorescence).
Also describes the way solids are deposited when the water containing them is passed over rocks or gravel. Leaching pit – used as a discharge point (often) for the backwash from a water softener or for grey water from the house..
See picture Efflorescence
See Efflorescence, Grey water, Holding tanks
Lead water supply pipes are still in use for Municipal supplies in many cities throughout North America and can also be found in many older homes.
Look for grey pipes coming through the basement or lower level floor or wall. Scratch them with something sharp – if it’s soft and leaves a bright silver line – it’s likely lead.
You can’t identify lead conclusively (legally) without a laboratory test.
The issue of lead water supply pipes is one of health. Even small amounts of lead can cause damage to the development of fetuses or small children and it’s a known health hazard for the elderly or anyone with compromised immune systems.
You can have lead pipes professionally removed from inside your home, however this doesn’t solve the problem of the lead supply pipes in the street.
So if you’re in a vulnerable group – be careful about the issue.
The manufacturers of the popular Brita ® range of water filters, claim that some of their devices will remove better than 90% of lead from water.
Lead was used in paint in many older homes and when sanded during renovations or upgrades the dust created can be high in lead content.
In many jurisdictions, professional removal is always recommended.
Any lead absorption can be hazardous to your health. Be sure to read the web sites below so that you are fully informed.
Visit http://www.hc-sc.gc.ca/iyh-vsv/prod/paint-peinture_e.html or http://www.epa.gov/lead/ for more information
The metal, wood, brick or concrete supports over a window, door or other opening, usually in masonry walls. Sometimes called ‘Headers” – especially at interior framing.
See picture lintel, lintel1 and lintel2
Load (electrical)
The electrical demand (in watts or hp) of electrical equipment.
The air supply needed to maintain a constant chimney draft or to ensure a furnace is not affected by exterior pressure fluctuations. (a.k.a. dilution air)
Mid efficiency furnace See Furnace efficiency link
Some construction materials give off toxic gasses when first installed. The amount typically reduces over time. One of the best known materials is UFFI (Urea Formaldehyde Foam Insulation).
See U.F.F.I.
Acronym for Polybutylene – water supply pipes.
Acronym for Cross Linked Polyethelene – water supply pipes.
A chamber for distributing warm air from a furnace to the supply ducts (supply plenum) or for receiving air to be heated by the furnace (return plenum).
Plastic material used in pipes, sheet plastic vapour barriers, vents etc.
Just about all homes bought and sold in North America have conditions in the contract of purchase and sale, indicating that the deal is subject to the provision of a potable water sample – on or before closing.
Potable means that it’s suitable for drinking (by humans) because it contains no harmful elements.
In many areas, the water is tested only for basic contamination by bacteria. If this result is at zero or very near to it, the water will be declared potable.
Further chemical analyses are available (at a price).
Always take your own water sample from the property or at the very least – supervise its collection.
See Water Samples
The product of volts and amps. Either watts (true power) or VA (apparent power).
Pressure equalized rain screen
See Rain screen wall
Pressure tanks are used in well systems to maintain a constant pressure in the water supply and to provide a small reservoir in the event of a power failure. Typically the tank has a neoprene or rubber bladder stretched across the inside. Water from the pump rises under the bladder, forcing it up and compressing the air in the top of the tank, until it reaches about 40 or 50 pounds per square inch.
Opening any faucet allows the compressed air to push water out at that pressure.
A sensor detects the drop in pressure and sends a message to the pump to send more water.
Over time or due to some defects, the air in the pressure tank can leak out. As a result, the tank has almost all water and little air – a scenario that lowers the pressure at the faucets and may cause the water to come out in spurts, instead of a steady flow.
This is what is meant by a waterlogged tank.
You can easily fix the problem (assuming the bladder’s not damaged – in which case you likely need a new tank) by emptying the tank and re-pressurizing it. Unless you have a compressor, it’s a job for a plumber.
Acronym for Polyvinyl chloride. Used widely for drain, waste and vent systems.
See Insulation and R.S.I.
A building standard using the latest techniques in construction, insulation and air management which has a very high efficiency rating for heating and cooling.
See Insulation link
Heating that uses any flat surface to transfer heat to a room. Examples might be radiators (obviously) or under floor heating. The point is that it’s a surface that gets heated – not just the air.
Radon gas is a naturally occurring gas that comes as the result of the decay of radium. It is colorless, odorless and over time, carcinogenic.
For more details see: http://radon.com/radon/radon_FAQ.html or
http://www.epa.gov/iaq/radon/radonqa1.html
Look at most masonry veneer walls and you’ll see there are holes in the mortar, every six or seven bricks, along the bottom row and along the rows above the lintels at windows and doors.
These holes are for drainage (most bricks, except the concrete variety, are porous) and also allow the air pressure to equalize between the outside and the cavity.
When wind and rain blow against the wall of a house, the exterior pressure can be higher than the pressure in the cavity. The lower pressure allows moisture to pass through the exterior material more easily than if the pressure on both sides was the same.
Don’t fill up the holes or you may find damp patches inside your home next time there’s a rain storm!!
See Weep holes
Railings or handrail defects are some of the most reported deficiencies in home inspections today. The issue is of course one of safety – but many homeowners don’t realize they may be liable if a visitor to their home falls or is injured as a result of poor, missing or inadequate railings.
Here’s a brief synopsis of the current requirements. The list is not exhaustive or complete, and youmust always check the codes in your location for the full details.
Grippable rail required if there are more than four risers.
Handrail height to be between 32 and 38 inches.
No breaks in rail preventing continuous hand hold.
Spindles close enough together to prevent a 4” ball passing through.
Handrails required:
On decks and landings more than 24 inches above grade or adjacent level (30 inches in U.S.).
On open side of stairs where total rise > 30 inches or 6 steps.
Both sides of stairs where width is > 43 inches.
Repairing, installing or upgrading railings be treated as a priority.
See pictures (Rail1, 2, 3, and 4)
Reverse osmosis (Go here for a comparison chart of water treatments).
Water is filtered (under pressure) through a semi-permeable membrane. This means that the membrane is choosy about what it allows through.
It lets water through but rejects other stuff like bacteria, salts, some toxins and anything much bigger than 150 Daltons. (A Dalton is 1.67 x 10-24 of a gram) – Really small !!
You have to pre and post filter the water and clean or replace the membrane regularly.
The downside of reverse osmosis is that you get less than 20% of the water filtered for use – the other 80% is waste.
See U.V. treatment, Water distillers, Activated carbon filters, Water samples link
Electrical outlets (including light sockets) must be wired in a specific way. The hot (usually black) wire must go under the brass coloured screw – or to the side with the small opening on the outlet.
The neutral wire (usually white) must go under the silver screw – or to the side with the largest opening on the outlet.
It matters because switches open and close the hot side. So when the switch is off – there’s no power to the device. If only the neutral side is switched – the device will be energized no matter where the switch is positioned.
Most modern appliances have different sized prongs to ensure the right polarity. Laptop computers for instance often won’t boot from an outlet with reversed polarity.
Trade name for non-metallic sheathed cable.
Acronym for Resistance System International – a metric thermal resistance measurement technique. The metric equivalent of ‘R’ value.
See Insulation
Also known as ‘Driven wells’ – they are constructed by banging sections of 2 or 3 inch diameter steel pipe into the ground.
At the head of the pipe is a steel and brass mesh filter system shaped into a point.
A jet pump pulls water up the pipe into the pressure tank.
These wells are usually only used in sandy ground conditions and are typically no more than about 20 feet deep.
They are vulnerable loss of water in dry seasons and are easily contaminated.
See animation
See Drilled well, Bored well, Well pumps and Wells
I read somewhere that the average person in Canada or the U.S., generates between 275 and 350 litres (75 – 95 gallons) of sewage per day from all sources.
There are two questions here….
1. Who measures this stuff and how?
2. Where does it all go?
Probably no-one knows the answers to the first one – but we’re going to look into the second one now.
If you live in the city, it’s likely that you have Municipal sewers. Anything you throw down the sink or flush, ends up in those sewers and within a few seconds of the flush – it’s no longer your problem.
If you live in a rural area however – it’s likely you have some sort of septic system or a holding tank. This means that everything’s your problem!
If you have a septic system, waste from the house (liquids and solids) flow down a short pipe into the first half of the septic tank.
The solids sink to the bottom and the anaerobic bacteria (the ones that don’t need air to live) start munching them all up.
The fats and grease float to the top to create a scum.
So it’s a bit like a three layer cake – solids at the bottom, liquid in the middle and scum at the top.
There’s a divider between the first half and the second half of the tank – we call it a baffle.
There’s a space in the baffle that allows the liquid to get into the second half of the tank, while holding everything else back.
Eventually the second half fills and the liquid flows out into a series of pipes (with lots of small holes in them) underground. This is usually known as the ‘bed’, ‘tile bed’, or ‘leaching bed’.
The pipes are buried in a layer of gravel. The fluid seeps out from the pipes into the gravel and subsequently into the ground where the aerobic bacteria (the air breathing ones) work on it some more.
There are a number of other systems. Some use peat as a filter medium, some have extra chambers and pumps – but no matter how they work – they all do the same job.
There are a few rules when you’re living with a septic system:
On or in the tile bed…….
• No fat or grease (save it in a pot and dump it in the garbage).
• No latex paint. (Wash your brushes or rollers in a pail).
• No driving on the bed with anything bigger or heavier than a lawn tractor.
• No snowmobiles.
• No rinks.
• No swimming pools.
• Grow only grass on the bed – no trees, bushes or rock gardens.
• If the bed’s raised up from the surrounding land – don’t fill in the slope to make the garden flatter.
• Don’t allow the backwash from a water softener that uses sodium (salt) as a medium, to empty into the system. It kills the bacteria and corrodes the tank. If you use a potassium based softener medium – that’s OK.
About the tank……
• Most septic tanks are concrete although some are plastic. A few very old ones are steel.
• Concrete tanks are subject to erosion – especially the baffles.
• Emptying the backwash from a sodium driven water softener – increases the corrosion rate . (Systems using potassium don’t have this problem).
• Pumping out the tank is part of normal maintenance – however the frequency of the pump outs depends on use.
• Remember that when you pump out the tank – you get rid of everything – good and bad.
• It may take several weeks after pumping, for the bacteria in your system to regenerate to a normal working level.
What if the system fails?
In the unfortunate event that your septic system fails, the cost of replacement will depend on a number of factors – size (obviously) – the style of system and at the top of the list – how much room you have.
The biggest cost in replacement is often the removal of the contaminated soil of the old (failed) bed.
If you live in a property with less than about 2 acres, it’s likely you will have to bear the cost of removal – often running to several thousand dollars.
In a larger property, you may be able to just abandon the old tile bed and install a new one nearby.
Typical costs for a three bedroom, three bathroom home (where you have to truck the contaminated stuff away) would be in the $15 – 25,000.00 (12 – 20,000.00 US) range – but always get at least three quotations before proceeding.
Typically – Home Inspectors don’t deal with septic system examinations. Most should have a good knowledge of the issues involved though and should be able to give you some advice about the systems and their use.
Always have a specialized septic inspector or engineer examine any septic system before you buy. Their fee will certainly be less that any replacement costs you may suffer if things are not right.
See Animation
See picture Septic
Service disconnect
The main electrical switch that disconnects the consumer from the supply authority. Often at the main panel or nearby in a separate box.
The overhead conductors connecting the house to the utility.
Underground service entrance conductors.
The style that slide from top to bottom. The singles hung ones only open at the bottom – whereas the double hung ones can be opened at top or bottom.
See picture Windows
The measure of how far a roof goes up (rise) against how far it goes along (run). So a roof with a rise of 5 feet for every 12 feet it goes along – would be said to have a slope of 5:12.
Roofs with slopes lower than about 2:12 are considered to be flat and need special treatment. (Shingles don’t work well at this slope).
Buildings settle due to inadequate or compromised footings. The causes are many and varied – they include:
• Inadequate footing size from inception (design fault)
• Inadequate footing size from inception caused by failure to follow the plan.
• Inadequate footing size from inception caused by failure to take and/or react to soil sample information.
• Footings too shallow for frost level.
• Footings settle due to excess water in soil underneath – caused by a poorly positioned downspout, a leaking underground pipe or an underground stream or other water source for instance.
• Footings settle due to seismic event.
Significant settlement will damage foundation walls and above grade structures.
Unless you have a detailed understanding of the issues involved and access to some specialized equipment, it’s unlikely you will be able to carry out these sort of repairs yourself.
See Heaving link
In the event that water samples fail due to contamination, shocking the well is a recognized way to show that the sample was contaminated only by bacteria in the pipes and not at the source.
Shocking will clean all supply pipes from the source in the well, through the pump and pressure system to the sample collection point.
Visit http://www.boquetriver.org/chlorine.html for instructions on how to do it.
See Water and Water samples
As poured concrete dries, it shrinks, sometimes causing small cracks. These can be mistaken for settlement cracks (which may be a little more serious.) Your home inspector will advise you on which cracks need immediate repairs.
Shrinkage in concrete floors is also common. Most concrete floors are not part of the building structure (except for slab-on-grade). If your home has a basement or crawl space, expect some minor cracks in the concrete floors.
The way the surface of bricks or other masonry is damaged – usually by frost.
See picture Spalling
Warm air rises inside a house, leaving through the upper levels. This causes cold air to be dragged through the lower sections of the building.
The metal flashing installed on masonry/roof junctions. The step is created where the flashing follows the courses of bricks up the roof slope. This sort of flashing is commonly seen at masonry chimneys.
Used in well systems, these pumps hang inside the well casing and push water up from the well into the pressure tank.
See Jet pump
See animation – well system
See picture – submersible pump
We use materials that conduct heat poorly to help prevent heat loss through windows and walls. Metal window frames usually have this sort of material installed between two sections of the frame – thus even though the exterior metal freezes, the thermal break (often a polymer or rubber type material) prevents the inside frame from freezing as well.
Materials that conduct heat easily between surfaces create a thermal bridge. So framing members – especially steel studs, would fall into this category. Heat will be transferred from the exterior (cold) through the metal stud into the interior drywall.
The insulating materials that surround a building and keep the interior from being affected by fluctuating exterior temperatures.
Acronym for Urea Formaldehyde Foam Insulation – an insulator used in cavity walls for many years. The off-gassing of formaldehyde from these installations is now considered by most commentators to have ended, rendering the material safe.
See Off gassing link
Acronym for Ultra Violet – a system used to treat contaminated water. U.V. filters kill most bacteria and viruses that pass through the system.
They don’t remove chemical contaminates.
The water should be used quickly after treatment as stored water can be re-contaminated.
See Reverse osmosis, Water distillers, Water samples link
The vapour barrier helps to protect the building structure from moisture.
It must be installed on the warm side of the insulation although in some warmer areas it may be installed part way through the wall or ceiling.
Unlike air barriers, vapour barriers don’t have to be perfectly sealed to work, although the more they are sealed, the better they will work.
Not only polyethylene is used, although that’s probably the most popular material. Often even layers of paint on walls and ceilings can be the vapour barrier(or part of it).
See Air barrier link
Adequate ventilation in living spaces, basements, crawl spaces and attics is a major factor in preventing the growth of molds and mildews and in helping to maintain reasonable air quality.
Many homes are poorly ventilated, creating high humidity which damages interior finishes, furniture and hardwood floors.
Humidifiers and de-humidifiers are available.
See Ice damming link
This insulation may contain asbestos. The mica type material was mined in a small town in Montana and shipped throughout the U.S. and Canada.
Not all vermiculite contains asbestos. Only a laboratory test can confirm its presence.
Most of the material was used to insulate attics although it can also be found in some cavity walls.
The problem is that if disturbed or poorly installed, the asbestos fibres can become airborne, creating the potential for the occupants to inhale the fibres.
Asbestos is a known cause of asbestosis and mesothelioma. Asbestosis is a disease caused by breathing in asbestos fibres which may ultimately lead to lung or other cancers. Mesothelioma is a cancer of the lungs or abdominal cavity, also caused by the inhalation of asbestos fibres.
Typical removal of the material can be costly as the asbestos must be completely contained during the operation. Professionally qualified personnel must always be used. Workers wear special suits and breathing apparatus.
Typically – air quality samples are taken before and after removal. If you are the buyer of a home with this material installed, be sure to get some sort of certification from the abatement company. You’ll be sure to need it at re-sale.
If you are the seller, expect it to be an issue.
See pictures (Vermiculite and Zonolite) links
See Asbestos
See – Water hammer, Water sample, Water softeners, Potable, Drilled well, Sand point well, Bored well, Well pumps, Wells, U.V. treatment, Reverse osmosis, Water distillers, Water chart, Water Conditioners
Water conditioners work by electronically altering the crystallization behaviour of Calcium and Magnesium in such a way that they loose their ability to stick to the inside of pipes.
There is some argument as to whether they actually work and certainly – the jury’s still out on the issue, despite a number of (supposedly) independent reviews.
See – Water hammer, Water sample, Water softeners, Potable, Drilled well, Sand point well, Bored well, Well pumps, Wells, U.V. treatment, Reverse osmosis, Water distillers, Water chart, links
Loud banging in water pipes when a valve (often a faucet) is closed quickly.
It’s caused by the moving water in the pipe, suddenly crashing into a dead end (the closed faucet valve). The water bounces back and forth until the momentum is dissipated.
Solution: Install air cushions, bumpers or absorbers near the offending device. This may be a job for a plumber.
Water distillers (Go here for a comparison chart of water treatments).
Water is heated to boiling point and the steam is allowed to condense. The (then) distilled water is collected.
Some pollutants that are resistant to boiling won’t be removed, however the water is generally of high quality.
The downside is that it’s expensive to produce – it takes a lot of energy to boil water.
Some drinking aficionados complain that the water has little taste – likely due to the low levels of dissolved oxygen.
See – Activated carbon filters, Backwash, Bored well, Drilled well, Leaching, Potable, Reverse osmosis, Sand filters, Sand point well, Water, Water chart, Water Conditioners, Water hammer, Water softeners, Water treatment, Well pumps, Wells, U.V. treatment
See Pressure tank link
Taking a water sample is simple if you follow a few rules.
You can get bottles free from most Municipalities and from many private laboratories. (A pop or water bottle won’t do!)
Always take your own sample – or at the very least, supervise the taking.
In some larger areas, there are professional companies who will take the sample for you, have it analyzed and present and explain the results.
• A convenient place to take the sample is usually at the kitchen sink.
• Be sure to remove the filter from the end of the tap (it’s usually filled with bacteria).
• Run the cold water for at least ten minutes. This clears any stagnant or stationary water that’s been sitting in the pipes. This is especially important where the property has been vacant for a long time and in these cases, you should run the water for much longer before taking the test.
• Fill the test bottle and take it to the laboratory as soon as possible.
• If you must keep it overnight – leave it in the fridge.
Municipal testing is usually free and takes a few days. Private laboratories obviously charge, but can usually get you a basic test result, by fax or e-mail, in under 24 hours.
Don’t worry about water softeners – the sodium or potassium they use doesn’t affect the potability test, although it will show up if you have a more detailed chemical analysis.
Sample failures (results that show bacteria in the sample) are often caused by errors in taking the sample.
If the first test is positive for bacteria – take another.
Following a bad test result, You should try to get at least two or three consecutive, clear samples to be sure.
In some cases, contamination in the well casing or supply pipes is a factor in the positive test for bacteria. This is especially true where the home has been unoccupied for a long time.
You may be able to resolve that issue by “shocking the well”.
This procedure involves flushing the system with bleach.
Visit http://www.boquetriver.org/chlorine.html for detailed instructions on how to do it.
See Drilled well, Sand point well, Bored well, Well pumps, Wells, U.V. treatment, Reverse osmosis, Water distillers, Water samples, Water, Shocking (wells)
Water softeners (Go here for a comparison chart of water treatments).
We say water is hard when it contains a lot of calcium and/or magnesium. This makes it tough to get a lather going in the shower and is hard on plumbing pipes, fixtures and your clothes as they go through the washer.
We use sodium to replace the calcium/magnesium. Sodium doesn’t cause a problem by clogging up pipes like calcium does and it also allows the soap to lather well. So in that way, both the problems of hard water are resolved.
A water softener contains a lot of small plastic beads or a chemical matrix called zeolite.
We add sodium chloride (salt) to a container – this mixes with water and makes a strong solution called brine. The softener uses the brine to coat the beads or zeolite (in a separate cylinder) with sodium and as the house water passes through – the sodium trades places with the calcium/magnesium.
Over time, all the sodium gets exchanged and then the softener regenerates (usually automatically) by sending a really strong solution of sodium (brine) over the beads. This washes off all the calcium/magnesium and re-coats the beads with sodium.
The softener then discharges the waste water (full of calcium/magnesium) and any remaining brine from the regeneration process – away to a sump or leaching pit.
Never allow the backwash to empty into a septic system. The sodium will kill the bacteria and deteriorate the concrete of the septic tank.
You can also use a potassium based softener – a popular one is called Nature’s Own. This uses potassium to coat the beads (instead of sodium). There are a number of advantages:
• Increased sodium levels aren’t good for small children, babies or people with heart problems, high blood pressure and so on.
• Increased potassium on the other hand can be beneficial to health.
• Potassium doesn’t kill the bacteria in the septic tank or deteriorate concrete.
On the down side – it’s much more expensive – typically three times the price of the sodium stuff.
See – Water, Water hammer, Water softeners, Water treatment, Water distillers, Water chart, Water Conditioners, Backwash, Leaching Potable, Drilled well, Sand point well, Bored well, Well pumps, Wells, U.V. treatment, Reverse osmosis, Activated carbon water filters links
Water treatment (Go here for a comparison chart of water treatments).
In some cases, despite our best efforts, the water supply on our properties is contaminated with some sort of harmful bacteria.
We can resolve this issue by installing a water treatment system. Most of us have seen the commercial water treatment systems used by the military that can turn raw sewage into drinking water!!
Generally a domestic water system in North America won’t need that level of treatment however many smaller systems are available.
See – Activated carbon filters, Bored well, Drilled well, Leaching, Potable, Sand point well, Water,Water chart, Water Conditioners, Water distillers, Water hammer, Water softeners, Well pumps,Wells, U.V. treatment
The holes (often) at the bottom of a retaining wall or other masonry. They allow water to drain from behind the wall, thereby reducing the water pressure that might otherwise build up and collapse the wall.
They are also seen at the bottom of rain screen walls.
See Rain screen wall
The perforated pipe at the footing level, that is usually connected to a sump or sewer. It drains excess water that reaches the foundations or footings thus helping to prevent water build up against the foundation wall.
The expression is also used to describe the perforated pipes in the tile bed of a septic system.
Private water supplies often come from drilled, dug or sand point wells.
Water is sucked or pumped up from an aquifer and arrives at the taps via a pressure system.
Unlike city or municipal supplies, where you get what you’re given, the pressure at well systems can be easily adjusted from gentle rain, to the point where the shower will blow you out of the tub!!
- See animation
See pictures Jet pump and submersible pump link
See Drilled wells, Dug wells, Sand point wells, Driven wells, Bored wells, Jet pump and submersible pump
Window wells are used to retain soil or other grade material, where we need to build it up in the vicinity of a lower level window that is at, or near, grade.
The window well frame (usually steel, treated wood or cedar) keeps the dirt away from the vulnerable window.
If basements or crawl spaces leak in the vicinity of installed window wells, the problem is usually one, or a combination of:
1. Material inside the well not porous. (Clear stone or gravel works best)
2. Material inside the well too high in relation to the window sill.
3. Missing or clogged drain to the footing.
4. Grade slopes towards the well.
5. Adjacent crack in the foundation.
6. Poorly sealed window frame at the foundation.
7. Excess water (from an nearby downspout for instance) being directed at or near the well.
Installing the plastic domes over the well seldom makes much difference, as most leaks occur because water drains into the well from an adjacent grade.
In snowy areas, the domes will keep out much of the snow, however they also get brittle in very cold temperatures.
The pictures include sectional details of how window wells should be installed.
See Eavestrough, Grading
See pictures Window well, Window well1, Window well2, Window well3, Downspout4